There's nothing cheap about this boat. The frame is large, at least 1 inch tubing. Everything seems to be powder coated. Frame pieces line up and pins drop in without rubber mallet smacking. I can't even say that about my Port-a-Bote. (Since sold) I needed to keep a mallet with it to get seats etc. to line up. None of that crap with this boat.The heavy nylon pontoon covering removes with large sleeping bag type zippers. Lots of storage pockets with large zippers. My first time out, I launched next to a guy with a RIB boat, and his obviously expensive boat had the same inflate/deflate valves. He borrowed my double action pump because his foot pump was too slow, and the same fitting worked in his boat's valves.I read other reviews talking about adding a swivel seat piece, and it's very easy. (I ordered the swivel piece along with the boat) The 1st time out though was irritating because I used whatever hardware I had on hand. The wingnuts will leave holes in your fingers, standard bolts spin and don't get tight enough. The photos show version 2.0 of the seat adjustment. I used carriage bolts in the swivel part because the square head section prevents spinning of the bolt, and the large handles of the thumb knobs makes tightening/loosening magnitudes easier. The knobs are Ace Hardware 1/4 x 20 thumb screws which are about $4.50 each. The swivel is attached to the seat with #14 x 1.5" screws. Note that this was all well worth it, as A) You really need a seat swivel to spin and reach things in the cargo basket, and B) adding cargo, trolling motor, ice chest, whatever, changes the balance of the boat, so you need frequent seat adjustments. (For each trip out on the water)It tracks nicely, much better than the Tote-n-Float rubber raft I had years ago. If you row backwards and but some pull into the oars, you can keep up with a kayak, so it does move along easy. I row forward 98% of the time. And those oars. The tubing is about 1/8" thick, these are NOT toy boat oars. There are double locking knobs. The only thing that I might change later is adding pin lock type oar locks so I don't have to get the paddles up vertical and then keep them that way while rowing. That will mean drilling the oar tubing though, and that's a maybe.Here's a caveat about small pontoon boats, and one I didn't think about before getting one. I consider it to be a "death grip" boat. As in keep a death grip on your binoculars, camera, tackle box, cellphone, knife, can of pop/beer, satellite communicator, (Inreach Explorer, you NEED one of those!) or whatever else you have out and are handling while out in it. You are on a seat in open water, feet on pegs like a motorcycle. You drop something in water more than a few inches deep and it's not shiny and easy to see in the mud, or if it doesn't float, it's gone. I repeat, it's GONE. There's nothing underneath you and/or your seat, there's no floor, the mesh thing directly under the seat won't catch it unless you're really lucky.One last thing, I've read bad reviews about this "problem" too: keep a close eye on the air pressure. My motorcoach, with 120 PSI commercial 11R22.5 truck tires changes all the time. (TPMS on the dash) They can be 15% higher on the sun side of the coach while traveling on the freeway. They lose it when the temp drops overnight to the point alarms go off on the TPMS. (The TPMS and I have a love/hate relationship) The pontoons are low pressure and very sensitive to temp changes. Leave them "soft" until you actually put it into the water and head out. Leave them soft if you're heading to the water with an assembled boat in the back of your truck. When out on the water, If the sun gets to them and/or you move into warm shallows, you may have to let them out a little. NEVER leave the shore without your air pump. (Kind of goes without saying though)